Here are the steps for the swooping squat
As the waves approach, paddle hard against the waves to build momentum, then place your hands on the rail at shoulder height and push
Stretch your arms, this will push your board further under the water.
At the same time push your body away from the board so that you rest one knee on the board (foot in big waves) to apply pressure so that you are more or less level under the water.
As the wave passes you, begin to push the board forward, releasing the pressure and using your arms to point the board behind the wave.
When you reach the surface, you should return to the stroke position.
You know when you're doing Duck Diving right when you're diving under a wave and barely feel the pull of the wave
Other Duck Diving Essentials
Keep in mind that learning to dive with ducks takes a lot of practice to get right. Once you learn how to do it, you should be able to dive in flat water, just like a duck! !
The Turtle Roll
Duck diving on a 7 foot or longer surfboard becomes very difficult, especially if the board is surfing has something like a long board with the same wide nose. A large surfboard floats well and is difficult to push under water. If you can't dive deep enough to duck under the waves, the waves will push you back to shore.
In this case, don't be a duck... be a turtle, dude!
Turtle rolls aren't fun, but if you want, go out the back if you want and cross those walls of white water, they are essential.
Here's what to do...
As the wave approaches, grab the rail of the surfboard and wrap your hands around where you want to stand, or 1/4 to 1/3 of the way from the toe of the board, and leaned to one side, turning you and the board upside down.
Now you are underwater, under your surfboard. It is best to keep your body upright during this phase. ie at a 90 degree angle to the board, rather than parallel, this will help create resistance against the pull of the waves.
For small waves, hold your surfboard at least 2-3 feet from the tip of each rail and pull the front end of the board under the water. This will cause the wave to go over the top of the surfboard without grabbing it and pulling it back. In big waves, it takes a lot of force to push the board far enough under the water to resist the force of the wave to get it through.
The most important thing is to be upside down, underwater, before the waves hit you.
Be careful not to pull the board too far back, as this can make it easier for waves to get under the board and slip it out of your hands.
You should feel the surfboard push down and up as the wave rolls, that's how you know you're doing it right
Once the wave has passed , flip the surfboard back and continue.
Here you go! You are a turtle uncle!